Friday, November 24, 2006

African Silks

Silk in Africa
by Chris Spring, Julie Hudson
Editorial Reviews

From Booklist
There is no better authority on world textiles than the British Museum. The transformation of that expertise--and the accompanying visuals--can be found in the latest entry in the Fabric Folios series. The formatting is this: first, an introduction to the history, tradition, textiles, and decorative motifs in Africa and then100 or so actual all-in-color samples. Desert countries emphasize the luxuriousness of silk in much more complicated hues and decorations than those south of the U.S. border. All illustrations are well labeled with dimensions and descriptions a glossary and bibliography wrap up these very accessible introductions to ethnic fabrics. Selected reading and museum accession numbers are appended. Barbara Jacobs
Copyright © American Library Association. All rights reserved

About the Author
Chris Spring and Julie Hudson have both traveled in Africa and are the joint authors of North African Textiles. They are curators in the Department of Ethnography at the British Museum.

Book Description
The rich and diverse range of silk textiles from Africa are an unexpected revelation. This book focuses on over 30 pieces from the British Museumís spectacular collection, bringing together for the first time the highly distinctive traditions of silk weaving and embroidery from throughout the African continent. These range from textiles commissioned by royalty and high-ranking officials, such as the striking cloths of the Asante from Ghana or gowns from Ethiopia encrusted with gold, to less prestigious but no less glorious pieces, such as a multicolored Merina burial shroud from Madagascar. As a pattern source the book provides inspiration for striking color and tonal combinations as well as myriad ideas for using stripes, geometrics, and stylized figurative motifs.

In their stimulating introduction the authors discuss who made the textiles, how ideas traveled across the continent, and the significance of pattern and symbolism. In addition, all the principal techniques are explained, while brief commentaries highlight the design features.

African Fabric


Printed and Dyed Textiles from Africa
by John Gillow
Editorial Reviews

About the Author
John Gillow, traveler, writer, lecturer, and textile collector, has been tracking down outstanding textiles for the past 30 years. He spends part of each year traveling in Africa and furthering his passion for the stunning embroidered and woven fabrics worked by people of often remote areas. He is the author of Traditional Indian Textiles, Traditional Indonesian Textiles, and World Textiles.

Book Description
To go to any market in West Africa, where the women are swathed in brightly patterned wraps, is to experience an assault on your visual senses. This book, too, is a visual feast, illustrating the richness and diversity of the African textile tradition, and providing designers at all levels with inspiration for their own work. Over 30 textiles from the British Museum`s renowned collection are explored in detail: magnificent blue-and-white, indigo-resist-dyed cloths from West Africa mud cloths from Mali the unique warp-striped weaves and ikats from Madagascar adinkra blockprints and painted calligraphy cloths from Ghana and the adire cloths from Yorubaland. In his enlightening text John Gillow provides the background information to bring the pieces to life and clearly explains the full range of principle techniques employed. In addition, brief commentaries highlight the design features and a technical glossary supports the main text so you can rely on the book for eye-catching patterns as well as refer to it for specific information.

Out There



Out There: Marginalization and Contemporary Cultures
Marcia Tucker Foreword, Russell Ferguson Editor, Martha Gever Editor, Triah T. Minh-ha Editor, Corne
Synopsis

This text addresses the question of cultural marginalization - the process through which various groups are excluded from access to and participation in the dominant culture. An anthology that juxtaposes diverse points of view on issues of gender, race, sexual preference, and class, it takes up the fundamental issues raised when attempts are made to define concepts such as mainstream and minority, and it opens up new ways of thinking about culture and representation in society.

Fashion, Culture and Identity



Fashion, Culture, and Identity
by Fred Davis
Editorial Reviews

From Library Journal
Davis emeritus professor of sociology, Univ. of California-San Diego discusses several intriguing theories about fashion`s social and psychological significance in modern culture. What makes clothes fashion how fashions evolve how fashion choices express social status, gender identity, sexuality, and conformity and how fashion is or is not accepted are all discussed, Davis having reviewed over 200 sources of writings by social scientists and fashion students. Especially good is the chapter on the dynamics of certain groups` intentional resistance to fashion. Davis does propose a few of his own ideas, always backed up by the literature. The work would have been enlivened by increased emphasis on Davis`s actual interviews with designers, editors, and manufacturers, whose opinions are only briefly summarized. This book is a good basis for further reading, but lay readers will need handy access to an unabridged dictionary to cope with the scholarly language. For academic and specialized collections.
- Therese D. Baker, Western Kentucky Univ. Libs., Bowling Green
Copyright 1992 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.


From Book News, Inc.
Explores the cultural values and statements underlying the constantly revolving cutting edge of fashion, and examines the workings of the industry based on interviews with designers and fashion editors. Annotation copyright Book News, Inc. Portland, Or. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.


Book Description
What do our clothes say about who we are or who we think we are? How does the way we dress communicate messages about our identity? Is the desire to be in fashion universal, or is it unique to Western culture? How do fashions change? These are just a few of the intriguing questions Fred Davis sets out to answer in this provocative look at what we do with our clothes--and what they can do to us.
Much of what we assume to be individual preference, Davis shows, really reflects deeper social and cultural forces. Ours is an ambivalent social world, characterized by tensions over gender roles, social status, and the expression of sexuality. Predicting what people will wear becomes a risky gamble when the link between private self and public persona can be so unstable.

Fashion Cultures


Fashion Cultures: Theories, Explorations and Analysis
Stella Bruzzi Editor, Pamela Church Gibson Editor
Book Description

From the catwalk to the shopping mall, from the big screen to the art museum, fashion plays an increasingly central role in contemporary culture. Fashion Cultures investigates why we are so fascinated by fashion and the associated spheres of photography, magazines and television, and shopping. Fashion Cultures: re-addresses the fashionable image, considering the work of designers from Paul Smith to Alexander McQueen and Hussein Chalayan investigates the radicalism of fashion photography, from William Klein to Corinne Day considers fashion for the `unfashionable body` the old and the big, football and fashion, and geographies of style explores the relationship between fashion and the moving image in discussions of female cinema icons - from Grace Kelly to Gwyneth Paltrow - and iconic male images - from Cary Grant to Malcolm X and Mr Darcy - that have redefined notions of masculinity and cool makes a significant intervention into contemporary gender politics and theory, exploring themes such as spectacle, masquerade, and the struggle between fashion and feminism.

Synopsis

From the catwalk to the shopping mall, from the big screen to the art museum, fashion plays an increasingly central role in contemporary culture. Fashion Cultures investigates why we are so fascinated by fashion and the associated spheres of photography, magazines and television, and shopping. Fashion Cultures: re-addresses the fashionable image, considering the work of designers from Paul Smith to Alexander McQueen and Hussein Chalayan investigates the radicalism of fashion photography, from William Klein to Corinne Day considers fashion for the `unfashionable body` the old and the big, football and fashion, and geographies of style explores the relationship between fashion and the moving image in discussions of female cinema icons - from Grace Kelly to Gwyneth Paltrow - and iconic male images - from Cary Grant to Malcolm X and Mr Darcy - that have redefined notions of masculinity and cool makes a significant intervention into contemporary gender politics and theory, exploring themes such as spectacle, masquerade, and the struggle between fashion and feminism. Fiona Anderson, Sarah Berry, Christopher Breward, Stella Bruzzi, Edward Buscombe, Sarah Cardwell, Pamela Church Gibson, Catherine Constable, Louise Crewe, Rachel Dwyer, Caroline Evans, Jane Gaines, Lo

Bogolan: Shaping Culture Through Cloth


Bogolan: Shaping Culture Through Cloth in Contemporary Mali
by Victoria L. Rovine
Synopsis

In this illustrated book, Victoria Rovine explores the revival of a traditional African textile known variously as bogolanfini, bogolan or mudcloth. Since about 1990, artists of the West African nation of Mali have adapted this cloth, featuring black- or brown-and-white geometric patterns, to create a variety of wares, including intricately detailed paintings, elaborate high-fashion clothing and a wide range of other products aimed at both domestic and foreign consumers. Rovine describes the styles and forms that have developed as the cloth has moved from its rural origins into an urban international marketplace. Initially woven by village women according to local ritual practices, bogolan has become not only a symbol of national and ethnic identity, but also an urban fashion statement and lucrative commodity in the tourist trade and the international art market. In the United States, the textile has become a symbol of pride in the African-American community and a prominent example of the exotic. New artists such as fashion designer Chris Seydou have recreated and redefined bogolan for these expanding audiences. By tracing these transformations, Rovine illustrates the dynamic relationship between the past and the present in contemporary Africa. She also explores how changing incarnations of cultural heritage play an important role in national identity and how, in the United States and Europe, tradition has become a defining feature of an exotic other.

Black and Beautiful


Black and Beautiful: How Women of Colour Changed the Fashion Industry
Barbara Summers
Synopsis

Barbara Summers is a true fashion insider. Drawing from 17 years of experience as a Ford model and more than a decade of interviews with models and fashion professionals, she has created Black and Beautiful, the first book to recognize the powerful impact black models have had on both the fashion industry and popular culture. With insight and flair, Summers chronicles the evolution of black models-including Beverly Johnson, Helen Williams, Iman, Naomi Campbell, Tyra Banks, and others - whose names may have been forgotten but whose faces have left a lasting impression - exploring the behind-the-scene challenges that tested their courage, endurance, and integrity in a world both glamorous and harsh. Illustrated with more than 250 breathtaking images by the world`s most acclaimed photographers, Black and Beautiful is a crowning tribute to the beauty - and intelligence, heroism, and power - of black women everywhere.

Black Style


Black Style
Carol Tulloch
Book Description

The highly distinctive styles adopted by black men and women over the last fifty years have their origins in the African diaspora, but they have also been molded by politics, cultural exchange and the desire of different social groups to forge a distinctive identity. Black Style looks at the huge variety to be seen in black dress, hair and accessories, whether in West Africa, Jamaica, or reinvented on the streets of the United States and Great Britain.

John Picton looks at West Africa and the relationship between the vibrant textile patterns dyed and woven by local tribespeople and the statuesque robes worn by West African communities while Carolyn Cooper concentrates on Jamaican dress and its historical roots. Susan B. Kaiser, Leslie Rabine, Carol Hall and Daryl Ketchum highlight hip-hop culture within a broader historical context, placing the concept of respect, originating in the early years of slavery, at the centre of the African-American style identity. Carol Tulloch draws on a wide range of examples, from the Evangelical church and gospel singers to family events such as weddings and funerals, the world of pop music, carnival and street markets, to portray the multiple strands that make up black dress and identity in Great Britain.

Generously illustrated, this book portrays the wonderful diversity of approaches to fashion and individual style within the black community, while also giving voice to black men and women and engaging with current debates on the significance of dress in political and socio-cultural terms.

Key features:

- Accompanies Black British Style exhibition at the V&A

- International in scope

- Documents real people in real situations

- Authors draw on personal experience as well as placing black style in the wider context of contemporary culture

Synopsis

John Picton looks at West Africa and the relationship between the vibrant textile patterns dyed and woven by local tribespeople and the statuesque robes worn by West African communities, while Carolyn Cooper concentrates on Jamaican dress and its historical roots. Susan B. Kaiser, Leslie Rabine, Carol Hall and Daryl Ketchum highlight hip-hop culture within a broader historical context, placing the concept of respect, originating in the early years of slavery, at the centre of African-American style identity. Carol Tulloch draws on a wide range of examples, from the Evangelical church and gospel singers, to family events such as weddings and funerals, the world of pop music, carnival and street markets, to portray the multiple strands that make up black dress and identity in Great Britain. Generously illustrated, this book portrays the wonderful diversity of approaches to fashion and individual style within the black community, while also giving voice to black men and women and engaging with current debates on the significance of dress in political and socio-cultural terms.

Fashion and Its Social Agendas by Diana Crane


Fashion and Its Social Agendas: Class,Gender and Identity in Clothing
by Diana Crane
Editorial Reviews

From Library Journal
Why do people dress the way they do? How does clothing contribute to a person`s identity as a man or woman, as a white-collar professional or blue-collar worker, as a preppie, yuppie, or nerd? How is it that dress no longer denotes social class so much as lifestyle, whatever that is? Is haute couture defunct? Why may women wear pants and everything else men do, yet men may not wear skirts and everything else women do? Crane sociology, Univ. of Pennsylvania The Transformation of the Avant-Garde has written widely on the history and sociology of the arts, the news and entertainment media, fashion in clothing, and other material goods. Intelligent and informative, the book proposes thoughtful answers to some of these questions and helps us find our own answers to similar questions. While highly readable and thus accessible to the casual reader, this is a scholarly work intended mainly for an academic audience. Recommended for academic libraries and public libraries with substantial collections in art and culture.DJames F. DeRoche, Alexandria, VA
Copyright 2000 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers to the Hardcover edition.


Synopsis
It has long been said that clothes make the man or woman, but is it still true today? If so, how has the information clothes convey changed over the years? Using a wide range of historical and contemporary materials, Diana Crane demonstrates how the social significance of clothing has been transformed. Crane compares 19th-century societies - France and the United States - where social class was the most salient aspect of social identity signified in clothing with late 20th-century America, where lifestyle, gender, sexual orientation, age and ethnicity are more meaningful to individuals in constructing their wardrobes. Today, clothes worn at work signify social class, but leisure clothes convey meanings ranging from trite to political. In today`s multicode societies, clothes inhibit as well as facilitate communication between highly fragmented social groups. Crane extends her comparison by showing how 19th-century French designers created fashions that suited lifestyles of Paris elites but that were also widely adopted outside France. By contrast, today`s designers operate in a global marketplace, shaped by television, film and popular music. No longer confined to elites, trendsetters are drawn from many social groups, and most trends have short trajectories. To assess the impact of fashion on women, Crane uses voices of college-aged and middle-aged women who took part in focus groups. These discussions yield fascinating information about women`s perceptions of female identity and Fashion and Its Social Agendas stands out as a critical study of gender, fashion and consumer culture.

Alek Wek


African 2005 | Article
Alek Wek`s life story is a rollercoaster ride of heart-wrenching tragedy and unimaginable success.

Born in war-torn Sudan, she was forced to flee to the UK as a twelve-year-old refugee in the early 1990`s. She left friends and family and arrived in London`s East End with just her younger sister for comfort and support. Alek had to wait two years before her mother was allowed to enter the country, and suffered the untimely death of her much-loved further back in Sudan.

But at 18, everything changed. Talent-spotted at a street party in South London, the 5ft 11inch Alek was transformed into one of the modelling world`s stellar success stories, gracing the glossiest magazine covers and fashion capital catwalks.

She was coverted by the likes of Gucci, Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano and Alexander McQueen for her perfect dark skin, graceful figure and captivating facial features. By the time she was 20, Alek had become a global super model. She was voted best new model at the Venus de la Mode Fashion awards, MTV model of the year, and model of the decade by I-d magazine.

With life now a million miles away from the tiny village she fled as a young teenager, Alek is committed to maintaining a connection with her past. She has returned to Sudan twice with the aim of raising awareness about the plight of those suffering in the civil war there.

Her second return visit was filmed for the BBC`s ONE Life series, which followed her remarkable journey. Accompanied by her mother who was returning to Sudan for the first time, Alek went to visit the village she grew up in, pay respects at her father`s grave and search of a long-lost and much-loved aunt.

The dangerously unstable situation in Sudan, and the confusion surrounding the fate of her aunt made this journey a difficult and moving experience, filled with hope and uncertainty.

Senegal`s Queen of Couture


Senegal
Oumou Sy | Fashion Designer

Senegal`s Queen of Couture
by Nicole L. Smith
Source: http://www.africa-ata.org/fashion_senegal.htm

Where else does Western chic meet Afro-avant-garde but in the creations of Oumou Sy, Senegal`s queen of couture. Her signature: bold fashion ideas which contain glamorous Afro-centricism fused with universal style. Ms. Sy is not only a prolific fashion designer, but she is also a stylist, teacher, businesswoman and founder of the annual Dakar Carnival and International Fashion Week in Dakar. Always on the cutting edge, it was she with her partners who pioneered cyber-cafe culture across all of Senegal.

I was not only fortunate enough to catch up with Oumou Sy at her studio in Dakar, but I was also incredibly priviledged to take in a fashion show at the grand Hotel Meridien President. It was at this spectacle where I witnessed that Oumou Sy`s genius lay in creating a splendid visual encapsulation and indeed a celebration of the African Renaissance.

And how exactly does she achieve this? By using lithe models to elegantly parade outfits each one more breathtaking than the next, and through a creative process which engages with the true African style of giving everything a use and letting nothing go to waste! Baskets become sleeves kora`s are used like embroidery and cd`s adorn a ballgown - their prisms mirroring the hues of the dress`s fabric.

All jewellery is handmade and has a distinct African flavour: Ethiopian copper crosses, Masai-chic copper arm and ankle bracelets and beads beads beads! All styles of headgear make an appearance: the quotidian foulard dressed up with basket-wear, feathered crowns reminicient of Cameroonian royalty`s headgear and even decorative bowls are transformed into a dramatic head pieces. Calabashes are woven into pronounced hairstyles and strands of eastern influence come through in geisha girl hairstyles, gorgeous sari like fabric and belly dancer style accessories. Textiles are hand dyed in striking colour combinations and fabrics used range from silk and satin to raffia and cotton, making this range of Oumou`s THE melting pot of ethnic styles bubbling over into unchartered fashion territory.

This range may not be prêt-à-porter, but rather an expression of Senegalese-style savoir-faire appealing to the woman with a taste for glamour and style combined with artistic African flair.

For ages, the African aesthetic has been studied, collected, copied and admired. Now, in a rebirth of African cool, trendsetters, like Oumou Sy are part of a generation of fashion visionaries whose Pan-African pride is manifesting as a real fashion phenomenon!

Phtos and article courtesy of
Nicole L. Smith, World TV Report
nicole@worldtvreport.com

email address : oumousy@metissacana.sn

Metissacana Website: www.metissacana.sn

Oumou`s Web Page : http://www.metissacana.sn/oumousy

Online Boutique http://www.metissacana.sn/oumousy/boutique

Online Catalogue www.oumousy.fr.st

Nicole Smith nux99@hotmail.com

African Fashion | An Introduction


Introduction
African Fashion Competition


Here is a possible approach or concept in which young designers in Africa could be encouraged and given an opportunity to shine and become recognised.

Background:

Understandably Africa is not automatically considered as the Continent at the rock-face of fashion, some may even argue whether there is such a thing as African fashion. Africa is recognised more for famine than fashion yet there are a number of excellent African fashion designers that have made it in the West.

Whilst travelling throughout Africa I recognised that the people of Africa prefer clothes from the West. Initially, I thought this was because they wanted to emulate the moneyed West that was until I ventured into the local markets and heard the sellers. The issue was more on quality: First Quality, Second Quality and African Quality. The reason for the interest in Western clothes was that the cuts were better, more comfortable the cloth more durable, especially with the introduction of jean material and most importantly the thread was thicker with finer stitching and therefore lasted longer.

Africa has only recently had a taste of European and American designs it is now time to create African Fashion. There is plenty of untapped talent throughout Africa and a Fashion Competition needs to be created in order to find that talent. The materials are there in the market places all that is needed is a little recycling to make designer clothes that are inherently African designs.
Who are these Africa Fashion Designers?




This Competition should be spearheaded by the designers below:

Abdulmajid, Iman Iman | Somalia
Andrianomearisoa, Joël | Madagascar
Arthur, Beatrice | Ghana
Ayissi, Imane | Cameroon
Badian, Kouyaté Lamine Xuly Bët | Mali
Dieng Diakhaté, Diouma | Senegal
Dumas, Ly | Cameroon
Kane, Claire | Senegal
Krempin, Odette | Democratic Republic of Congo
Niane, Katoucha | Guinea
Nonterah Jr., Ben | Ghana
Sagoe, Deola | Nigeria
Saint Laurent, Yves | Algeria
Sidhamed, Seidnaly Alphadi | Niger
Sy, Oumou | Senegal
Tassi, Karim | Morocco
Way, Eric | South Africa
Wek, Alek | Sudan

Each designer has family and friends in their respective countries and are able to create a media campaign to drum up interest in this Competition. In return for this positive PR the designers will be rewarded with their fellow countrymen and women recognising them for their efforts and successes that they have achieved in the West and also increase sales throughtout the world.

The major problem in Africa is that people rarely recognise or even hear about the success stories outside their country and tend only to hear about the famous Americans and Europeans rather than their fellow countrymen/women. In regards to the Fashion Industry the clothes are targeted towards the rich, rather than the everyman therefore only a few have even heard of these designers. African countries need to start to celebrate their own but firstly they need to be told who they are.


Goals and Achievements:

· Gives opportunity for successful designers to find talent in Africa
· Empower the talented Africans to see the opportunities offered by Africans abroad and at home.
· Creates a fashion industry that is open to all.
· Puts African design at the forefront of Fashion.
· Creates jobs if manufacturing is to take place in Africa.
· Stretches the imagination of the possibilities of Africa.
· Gives a positive view of Africans home and abroad.



The Concept:

Quite simply it is an African Fashion Competition driven by the successful Africa designers throughout the world. The winners will be given an opportunity to display their works at the Paris or London or New York Fashion Week.

The Approach:

Stage 1. Initially approach the designers above with the Competition idea.

Stage 2. Encourage the Designer Group to create a PR/Media campaign in
their respective countries. Press/Radio and TV.

Stage 3. All entries most be sent to the design group in Africa, Europe or US.

Stage 4. Winners will be announced on local television and be given radio
interviews.

Stage 5. The selection from each group will be sent as a formal African
Collection to Paris/London/New York along with the designer.



Competition Rules:

1. Ask the contestants to choose an item or items of clothing – for example Levi 501’s.

2. Find a materials that best depicts the country – for example in the case of Kenya that might be Massai beads, corey shells from the Indian ocean and bird feathers from that specific country.

3. Reposition the materials chosen and place onto the item chosen in whatever and come up with 3 different designs.

4. Send the designs into the host African Design Group.










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Thursday, November 16, 2006

Interview with Fatimah Tuggar

Interview with Fatimah Tuggar
by Gary Sullivan
[This interview took place in Brooklyn on November 4, 2000. Half of the interview took place in a café over lunch the other half in the artist’s apartment, in front of her computer.]

Gary Sullivan: So let’s start with what you were describing to me earlier. How, at one of the showings of your video Fusion Cuisine at the Kitchen, this one guy in the audience was upset by it —

Fatimah Tuggar: We showed quite a lot of my work, as you’ll remember, and his concern was that, since the work was dealing with technology, that somehow he was hoping that I was being critical of how technology was infiltrating or taking over Africa, and not allowing Africa to remain pure. Which, I tried to explain to him, that has nothing to do with what I’m concerned about. I told him in fact that I like technology, and that it’s not really a question of whether something is good or bad, it’s not that kind of judgment. That basically, what it’s to do with is just examining, and looking at different ideas and how technology has affected the present situation and circumstances. It has nothing specific to do with wanting to keep technology out and keep this place pure.

GS: How did he take that?

FT: He was very unhappy, I guess. Because he wanted to turn it into some kind of weird Afro-centric thing where — you know, I tried to explain to him, that technology’s like everything else in life, it’s got good and bad points, it has advantages and disadvantages. Just like me: I’m good and I’m bad.

GS: Right.

FT: And, it’s not just one thing or the other. I didn’t think it was productive to do that, to be so extreme about it, one aspect of it or the other —

GS: Tell me again about what you were describing earlier about the collagist, John Heartfield, who as you said before was kind of an early hero of yours, but also very didactic.

FT: Well, with that, I mean, his work is very didactic — which, at the time, I can understand the need for it to be that way, because it’s a war. You can’t be in the middle of a war and explore different points of view. You have to kind of — out of survival and necessity, you have to pick a side, you know, in a war situation. It reminds me of — was it Winston Churchill who, referring to Russia, during the Second World War, We have to hold hands with the devil to cross the bridge, something like that. So, it’s like, they had to put aside their differences in order to win the war —

GS: Right —

FT: So I can understand why people have to be very specific about what side they’re on, but I don’t think that the position that I’m working in is exactly that kind of thing. I believe it has a sense of urgency, what I’m doing, but I don’t know that it’s that kind of situation, like a war.

GS: There are people who look at — who, when they begin to talk and think about aesthetics, become aligned with certain kinds of aesthetics, and will treat it very much like war. And, you don’t seem to have taken that route. I don’t know to what extent that’s true in the art world, but it’s true of the poetry world, where there’s camps — certain people do not cross certain lines, aesthetically.

FT: I don’t really belong to any camps.

GS: It doesn’t really seem like it.

FT: Or schools. Or any of that. [Laughs.] I just do my work.

GS: But you don’t do it in a vacuum.

FT: No, no. And I wouldn’t want to. You know? I mean, I want people to see what I do, I want them to be engaged with what I do, and I want it to be a part of a conversation. You’re absolutely right, I don’t want to work in a vacuum. On the other hand, I don’t belong to any kind of camp or group or movement, I guess is the word I’m looking for.

GS: Now, I don’t know if you’ll have more to say about it right now than you did the night of the screening that I saw at the Kitchen, but I’m fascinated by this — you and Christian [Haye] showed stills from another, earlier, video of yours, which I guess is one of the first things you’d done in art school?

FT: Well, that was — that, I did in graduate school.

GS: Okay, well, then let’s back up before that — when you first got into school, did you begin with collages?

FT: Well, in high school I did collages, and I stopped. I was doing collages and paintings. Not painting paintings: they’re posters of horror movies. And I went from that to —

GS: [Laughs.] Of real horror movies?

FT: No, the ones I invent in my head.

[Laughter.]

GS: Well, give me an example!

FT: Um, like, I would invent a horror movie where a mass-murderer or serial killer goes around screwing screws into the entire body of the victim, every inch of it.

[Laughter.]

GS: Oh, god. And that would be depicted in a painting of a poster?

FT: Yeah, that would be the poster — or, of a vampire — there are different ones.

GS: That’s pretty twisted. [Laughs.]

FT: I guess. I mean, I don’t want to analyze myself. But I was in a lot of pain at the time.

GS: Yeah.

FT: Because I hated boarding school.

GS: So, high school was boarding school?

FT: Yeah. Age 10 onwards. Anyway, then, I moved from the posters to doing product design ideas. Like, the tissue box that’s a radio. [Laughs.] That would be a good thing to sell to teenagers. They’d like it because it’s a boom-box. Or, the tissue box that’s a roller blade. You know?

GS: Did you actually construct them, or were these just designs?

FT: Yeah —

GS: Really?

FT: Yeah, I constructed them.

GS: Wow.

FT: There’s always been this cross-over for me with fine art and advertisement.

GS: Right.

FT: So, it’s funny, that I didn’t even think of that, until you just asked me this question now.

GS: Well, your work — your visual work — looks like it could be an advertisement of some kind, it looks like it could be the cover of Harper’s magazine, there are all kinds of things that —

FT: It’s borrowing from that language.

GS: Absolutely.

FT: But, it’s interesting that I’ve never really analyzed that, that there’s this flip-flop, with that going on. So, I was designing products. Then, once I got into art school, I wanted to do more three-dimensional work. And one of the things I designed actually earlier in high school is this chair that’s made out of segments of orange. So, when you peel the orange you slap them together, each segment makes part of a chair [Laughter.] and it becomes a chair —

GS: A full-size chair?

FT: Well, I didn’t make it full-size. I made it 1/4th size.

GS: Okay, well, one of the things I remember you telling me about, and I think this was in college, was — maybe taking the idea from Duchamp — where you had a bathroom? A women’s bathroom? Where you’d hear voices?

FT: Oh yeah, what I did was I made this piece called The Talking Urinal. I went into a women’s bathroom and I recorded women having conversations in the bathroom.

GS: And these were live, not acted?

FT: Yeah. And after I recorded them, I would go and ask them for permission to use their voices.

GS: They gave you permission?

FT: I found people who gave me permission.

GS: Wow.

FT: They were having conversations about their boyfriends.

GS: Really? Like Candid Camera, but kind of, Evil Candid Camera.

[Laughter.]

FT: And then, in the piece, out of the hole of the urinal, you hear conversations coming out. [Laughter.] And that’s the piece. But, using the urinal, you can’t escape Duchamp’s fountain.

Um. You know, I was thinking about what you and Christian were saying, about Tell Me Again [a piece exhibited at the Kitchen with Fusion Cuisine], about how it’s my voice. You know? I found that a little confusing, because — just because it’s me, that’s not the point. The point is — like you were saying how, when you come in to the gallery, you know that’s my voice —

GS: But, I know that’s a phenomenon that’s specific to me —

FT: But other people who don’t know me, don’t know that’s my voice —

GS: Yeah, I was trying to say that — remember, that one woman in the audience had asked you questions about how you had humanized this technology by putting your own voice in there, and I thought, well, I didn’t know what she was talking about — but, I began to wonder if the reason why she was saying that was because she associates your voice with a person, you. And so she has no distance from that, and she maybe wasn’t thinking that all the way through. She wasn’t thinking about the person who would hear this, and who had never talked with you before, in which case, it’s just going to be this radio, with this voice coming out of it, like any radio.

FT: Exactly. So, I was confused by what Christian —

GS: Because you were there. So we do know what you sound like, we do know that’s you.

FT: But, I’m saying that it can function as a piece, without me being there as well.

GS: Absolutely.

FT: I mean, I hope it does. [Laughs.]

GS: Yeah, it does. Okay, but going back again to this earlier video of yours. I’m starting maybe to see why you had done this movie —

FT: Right Angles, like ninety degrees. There are two versions. What happens is, the subject stands with her back against the wall, with her arms straight out, so that, from the armpit area, you could measure a ninety-degree angle. And if you measure from her shoulder towards the wall and from her neck down, you get another ninety-degree angle. And under the knee you get another ninety-degree angle. And above the thigh to the stomach, and the feet, to where the ankles are. So, everything is at right angles. And, the whole idea is, she maintains this position, and there’s this guy who measures her to make sure that she maintains the position, and who corrects it and adjusts it with instruments to measure ninety-degree angles. And this goes on until she’s no longer able to do this any longer. Neurologically — her body can’t take it, she starts shaking and she can’t keep her arms straight, and eventually she loses consciousness.

GS: Right.

FT: And the second version is two girls dressed in school uniforms, and they go through the same process together.

GS: And this really happened. They really passed out.

FT: Yeah. It’s real. And the duration is however long that takes — about fifteen minutes.

GS: What you discovered doing the first one was — since you were the one having to do it, since no one else would agree to do it —

FT: To pass out? No. I didn’t make enough money to pay someone to do that for me.

GS: But, the first reaction this was, when people were seeing that you had a white man measuring the angles, and you were the subject, and it was very clearly being read racially. Which you hadn’t counted on. Or, you had?

FT: I thought it would be an issue, but I didn’t think it would be the only thing people would be able to get out of it. I thought that they would be able to see the various layers of the relationship between the man and the woman, for instance the woman’s point of view, her desire to continue doing this and not giving up — I mean, I thought that there would be other things that people would be able to get from it. But everything else was completely obliterated by the fact that it’s a black woman with a white man.

GS: Yeah. In this culture, it’s — impossible at this point.

FT: You know, I thought that the whole thing about the rigidity of a right angle would come up, issues of rigidity, and that we’re not mechanical. Or that, this is a kind of technology, or tool, I thought that relationship would be explored, but none of that was explored —

GS: It’s also interesting to think that you’d been doing horror movie posters prior to this — because this sounds like a horror movie in a way. I mean, it’s an obvious sort of performance art type of event, but it’s kind of a horror movie, too. It’s like a snuff film or something. Something bad is going to happen to this person, and it’s a kind of self-torture, too. And, it relates back to the boarding school, too, with I guess the second version of it, you’ve got the school girl uniforms, it’s clearly —

FT: Actually, it comes out of other punishments I’d experienced in boarding school.

GS: Yeah, and you have to be right.

FT: Yes. You have to conform. You have to be right. You have to be the way they want you to be, you have to be in uniform and all look the same, like everybody else. A right angle is always the same. The thing that’s interesting to me about that now is that, the relationship that I see today, with the computer, where, basically the technology hasn’t been developed — I think I was saying this to you that night on the train — it hasn’t been developed to the point where the technology comes to us and conforms to how we are socially? We have to conform to the technology at this point, with computers. We sit in front of them, we have to go to them, we have to conform to their standards and limits. They don’t operate on the same level that we as social creatures do. So, I see an analogy between that relationship and also a relationship between these kinds of schoolings. You have to be in uniform, you have to do things in a certain way, you have to follow the rules — which, school in and of itself, is a kind of technology, I guess.

GS: Sure. It’s an indoctrination technology.

FT: With computers, on some level you can make that argument, that it’s an indoctrination technology.

GS: Absolutely. With itself as its own end. Whereas school is not necessarily its own end. So, when did you start doing — the things that of course I first knew about were these images that you had done in the computer, where you were using photographs that you had taken and you were combining them with clippings out of magazines and brochures and so on. When did you start doing those? Was that while you were still in school?

FT: No. Well, actually, that was right before I left graduate school in 1995. And that came out of a feeling of disillusionment with the art world. I mean, as far as I was concerned, I was in school when the 80s thing was happening in the art world, and the 80s thing was over, and in 1995 I didn’t feel like there was a clear direction, where people were going. And the 80s thing seemed to have a clear direction, so I was kind of not really sure what was happening to the art world, where things were going. Coupled with my own confusion of leaving school and figuring out what I wanted to do with myself. That’s when I decided that, well, I’d always taken these photographs: what can I do with them?

GS: Okay, well, let me ask you this, so I don’t get totally out of chronological sync. Before that, had you done any of the sculptures? Like the sneakers, or the raffia disc player?



FT: That comes in 1996. But, in 1995, prior to doing the collage, I did this series called Bewitched, in which I had an entire space with household appliances, sort of inspired by Elizabeth Montgomery’s Bewitched. And I had these traditional appliances motorized and they functioned by picking up human body heat, and I had them operating on their own.

GS: How did that work?

FT: Well, I don’t know any technology, and I’m not an engineer. So my technology is always very simple. I just make real-life connections. For instance, I want to get a blouse to be dipped in a callabash, in this motion [Raises and lowers arm.], so I go out and I think to myself, what in the real world makes this motion already? Well, a windshield wiper makes this motion already, so I would go to an automobile junkyard and I would get a wiper, bring it back, take a torch to it, cut it down the dimensions I need —

GS: So, how does the heat — what is the actual — the body heat —

FT: That is with sensors — you can buy them in different places. Particular hardware stores. And, also, you just modify things that are intended for other functions, and you take what you want and you modify things. My little rule of thumb is, if it exists, use it, don’t try to make it from scratch.

GS: So, these, the collages, the photocollages. What was the impulse — how did you suddenly hit on the idea to combine your photographs with other things. I mean, were you playing already in Photoshop, or did you decide that you wanted to do it, and so you learned Photoshop —

FT: Yeah. I came up with the idea, and then I had to find a way to get it done.

GS: Did the idea come out of a — did it begin as an ideology, or not an ideology, but did you have an idea about an aesthetic area that you wanted to explore, or did you just suddenly start having these images flash in your head? In other words, was it more ideological or more visceral? What were you responding to?

FT: That’s tough to say. I really don’t remember.

GS: I mean, it’s obvious in the horror movie posters that that’s very visceral, where you’re just allowing your id to completely be released, where you just say, okay, I’m not going to do anything, I’m not going to censor myself, I’m just going to allow this horrible image of all these screws in the body, and just do it. And that’s kind of responding to a visceral sensation, in your own —

FT: I’m trying to remember now. Well, there was — it came out of some kind of disillusionment with the art world, for me. The work that I saw that was being done and being shown. And it came out of this idea that, I’m leaving school, I’m no longer a student, and now more than ever — I mean, I always thought I should do the best work I could do because I didn’t even know if I would, um, if I would live long enough to, you know, say what I want to say — but, now, as school ended, I decided that I needed to get even more serious about what I wanted to do. So, the idea — I’d been taking photographs of people for a while, but I hadn’t used the photographs because I knew that, living in America, in this culture, I learned early on with other pieces, that using the images of black people from Africa was such a huge trigger, that everything I would do would be reduced to race. So I had been careful about using actual people and it was something I was always skirting around and never really quite did. So that was one reason to come to it, other than the fact that I was disillusioned. So, I just decided, I’m just going to do what I’m going to do, and some people are going to get it, and some people probably won’t get it. Most people probably won’t get it. So, that’s sort of how it happened. It was more of a brave move from where I was sitting than I thought it was.

GS: There does seem to be — well, like Cindy Sherman … were you looking at her stuff then?

FT: I mean, yeah, I’d seen her stuff in school. I’d seen all the 80s stuff in school. But my direction was away from that, that’s what I really thought I was doing, because with Cindy Sherman, for instance, everything is set up. You know what I mean? I mean, it’s more theatrical than my stuff. She paints herself, she’s always in the picture, there’s no using collage elements. I’m not interested in using myself so much. I don’t have that relationship where — I don’t really have the desire to be in the image. So, moving away from that and from —

GS: When you say the 80s, what are you really talking about?

FT: I’m talking about this whole work that deals with identity politics, reverting the male gaze, there was this whole way of thinking that —

GS: Because what I think of as the art world of the 80s is, like, Julian Schnabel, people who have nothing to do with that. I think of the art star system. But it sounds like you’re thinking of something very different.

FT: Yeah. I’m really not talking about that so much. Yeah, that was there, because of the market. But, I’m focusing more on the ideological thought that is interwoven in or written about that kind of work, you know, which has always to do with — okay. There were a lot of situations where, if you wanted to critique something? What you do is you take that thing, and you repeat it. If you don’t like something and you think it’s a stereotype, what you do is you get that something and you re-produce it. And everybody will say it’s a critique. And, it’s okay to read about that in school, it’s okay to get through school with that, but I found that very dissatisfying. And I wasn’t totally satisfied with the notion of everything being about the self. One’s identity, one’s sufferings, one’s way in which they were victimized or stereotyped. I wanted to move away from that. But, I knew that there would be some confusion, because I’m using images of black people, and I also — one thing I wanted to learn from was the history of feminism. Like, this notion of being broad and general, also, I didn’t want to fall on the other end of that, whereas I’m not talking about the specific self, myself — I didn’t want to go to the other extreme and be so broad and general. So, I had to figure out a way to find a place where I could be specific so that I could remain honest and vindicating to the ideas that I’m working with. So that, if I’m going to talk about technology and its effects on a third world culture, I’m going to be using a culture that I know, that I have experience with.

[First side of tape ends. The second side resumes as we are back in the artist’s apartment, looking at some of her work on her computer.]


Lady and the Maid © 2000 by Fatimah Tuggar

Gary Sullivan: Okay, so now we’re looking at — what’s the title of this piece?

Fatimah Tuggar: Lady and the Maid.

GS: Okay, so. I want to talk about how this was put together. I’m assuming that, generally speaking, the technique is carried through from image to image — no, you’re shaking your head, no.

FT: If you bring out the slides, I’ll show you, there’s a different way that each — that I’m working in each. In Shaking Buildings, it’s mostly this one photograph, and this one area with the bowls is the only place where I’m bringing in images [in this instance, of New York skyscrapers, which appear to be growing out of the bowls] from elsewhere. Or in Village Spells, you can see where I’ve added this tree trunk back there.


Village Spells © 1997 by Fatimah Tuggar

GS: Okay, so let’s talk about this new one, The Lady and the Maid. How does this image — I was amazed to find out that this was not anywhere near what it seems to be. It’s — I thought it was this one image where you have this woman sitting on the right hand side sitting in a chair eating, in this living room. And that you’d stuck this white woman over here, and put here in. Some of the detritus that’s down here on the floor, like the flower and the computer, have been added in, but that that’s not even the beginning …

FT: No.

GS: So, let’s talk about that. What kinds of manipulations are going on here?

FT: Well, the background image is several photographs that I took, and you know, to be honest with you, at the time that I took them I really didn’t know what I was going to do with them, but that I would somehow put these photographs together. So, this is one photograph, this area here [Points to the dark cabinet space on the left.], and you can see there’s this rectangular fan here, which appears twice.

GS: Oh, yeah. This lighter area, these lighter cabinets, that’s another photograph altogether.

FT: Yes. Actually, to be honest with you, I forgot about the duplicated fan until now. I don’t even remember! [Laughter.] All these things in front weren’t all there. A lot was put in later.

GS: So, the flower, in effect, is working in its own right, as an image, whatever we think or feel when we see the flower there, but it’s also, practically, it’s hiding a seam, isn’t it?

FT: It is hiding a seam. And that brings us to the question that there is another seam right here. [Indicating three shelves on the right hand side.] Yeah, you can see that this is its own area.

GS: It’s actually not that obvious it’s amazing.

FT: Well, look at the glass. And then look at this glass.

GS: I can’t really see a difference it’s not quite evident to me. See, because, there’s so much going on visually that confuses you. Because the table extends out past the first seam, and —

FT: And that’s the point. The table changes the reality. I mean, this bowl, for instance, wasn’t in the picture at all. You know?

GS: Right. So, now let’s talk about some of the other —

FT: Let me ask you a question. Why is it that people are always interested in that, like, how it was put together, which of it is real, where these things come from? Because I’ve noticed that, even with my gallery, they like to ask me that. What is it? What does that mean?

GS: I’m always personally interested in how things are constructed because I’m an artist, so I’m just fascinated by that. I want to know if something, if someone’s constructed something, whether it be a poem or visual art or something, I’m always kind of curious as to how, literally, did they make this thing? And, what was the, not necessarily the quote unquote technique, but literally the sort of practical What did they have to do to get this done?

FT: I mean, does that add to the work?

GS: It adds to its meaning, definitely. Because you’re dealing with — if you’re dealing with images at this level, you’re dealing with — because, we had talked about earlier, advertising, and how much your visual work resembles advertising. And your initial thing, when you’re looking at advertising, or something that maybe resembles advertising to any degree, is — you always begin to deconstruct it, like, Well, what is this? — I think at this point, for whatever reason, people who have maybe constant contact with art, we’re maybe going to begin by deconstructing it, and kind of react to it that way. Which may actually be the wrong way to go. You may want to have a much more visceral response to it —

FT: No, no. I mean, I don’t have a problem with that. I just noticed that people want to know these things, but sometimes, in certain situations, people are also, like, I don’t know if you’ll tell us. [Laughs.]

GS: Well, yeah, this can be a sensitive issue. Some poets I know hate talking about their work. And they will not tell you how they’ve constructed things. I’ve had poet friends like that who, even though they were friends of mine, they would not talk about their work on that level.

FT: I don’t care either way, really … whatever. [Laughs.] It doesn’t matter to me I was just curious as to why. … anyway, okay [Pointing to the left hand side of Lady and the Maid.] there’s this individual sitting here in the back, holding this remote control.

GS: Wow, yeah, you can barely see that, but, yeah. Let’s talk about the narrative element of this. As you were thinking about it and as you were putting it together, what kind of narrative is emerging for you here? It looks as though the white woman over here on the left is the maid, but I’m not —

FT: I don’t know. That’s the confusion. I don’t know who is the maid or who is the lady here. I mean, she’s the one with the high heels here. [Laughs.]

GS: But she’s also wearing the apron, too. And this woman is over here relaxing and eating. And I think that, although obviously in our culture we’re used to seeing the black woman as the maid, a very common stereotype, it seems as though that’s being reversed here —

FT: Which is interesting because, see, I grew up partly in Nigeria and partly in England, and there were times when the maids in England were not black.

GS: I’m not necessarily talking about real life.

FT: The maids in Nigeria were black, but the maids in England were white. So —

GS: But, I’m talking more about, like, the American media, movies, the history of that —

FT: Aunt Jemimah type stereotype, the black woman being the maid. Yeah, I’m kind of playing with that whole notion of who would be the maid and who would be …

GS: Now, I’m not sure what the maid is even doing, because she seems to have a big bowl there, is she going to tip that bowl down onto this stuff, is she adding to the mess, what is the mess doing there?

FT: For me, I don’t read it that way. She’s somehow tripping, with her foot caught underneath the computer [Laughs.] and the yogurt in her hand in the bowl and the callabash is out of control. She’s not in control of it.

GS: She’s not in control of her yogurt. I’m not going to do a Jungian analysis of that one.

[Laughter.]

FT: Is she in control of her yogurt? In Jungian terms, what would yogurt stand for?

GS: Um, I think the yogurt would be associated with the feminine. Because it’s in a circle, and it’s milk. And she’s tripping on this square item, which would be identified with the male, and the computer, the uh, the spirit world, uh … [Laughter.] Do you want to keep talking about this one? Or do you want to move on to the robot one?

FT: It’s entirely up to you. You’re running the show here. [Laughter.]

GS: Well, um, is there anything you want to say about this one before we go on to the next image?

FT: Yeah. Well, the black woman in the chair, the original picture, she’s actually watching TV. But I thought it would be interesting to have this relationship where, the surprised look on her face is actually in response to what’s going on on TV. But, here, it could be that what’s going on with the maid — which you’ve established she’s the maid — but I don’t know which one is the maid [Laughter.] — but that this woman on the right is responding to what the woman on the left is doing. Or it could be that that woman, in reality, she comes from TV-land. She’s really from media-world, and the surprise element in this other woman’s expression is possibly with respect to that. That’s sort of the interplay that I’m working with here. The only clue, by the way, that you have, that there might be a TV here [about where the viewer is situated], is the remote control on the far left.

GS: But that’s a very buried clue. Something you’d have to piece out — so that you really have to read this. Your pieces — I’ve always felt — really have to be read. There’s a kind of initial visual impact that they have, but when you start to look and read them —

FT: You’ll be rewarded, later. [Laughs.] Well, hopefully you’ll be rewarded. It could be a let-down too.

[Laughter.]

GS: But it is a different experience when you begin to read it, and it seems like that’s what you want.

FT: Yeah.


Robo Makes Dinner © 2000 by Fatimah Tuggar

GS: I think we’ve talked about Jess Collins before, and Hannah Höch, and this next piece really reminds me of both of their work. This is Robo Makes Dinner. And you mentioned that people were disturbed by this one. And you asked me if I knew why, and I said because there aren’t any people in it.

FT: Yeah, and I told you that’s exactly what people say, But this one has no people in it! And that’s the point. The point is that Robo is making dinner. There is no need for people. [Laughter.] Robo has started the fire, and he has three outdoors stoves burning.

GS: What’s interesting to me is the way in which people are responding to this, and not seeing any people, that they aren’t seeing everything here as evidence of people. There is not a single space in this entire image that does not suggest that human beings are here, or have been recently. Even the natural items, the fruits and vegetables, have clearly been picked by humans —

FT: And grown by humans. [Laughter.] And Robo does not eat this kind of food!

[Laughter.]

GS: So, basically, this is entirely human, including the robot, of course. There is nothing here that isn’t human, or evidence of human.

FT: Yeah, that’s kind of surprising. I’m not really clear on what that means. At first I was concerned because, well, as much as I would like to escape this, since I’m working here — well, there’s some element of bringing people that are not living here and from here in the other work. At first what I was thinking, as far as what disturbs people, or what people are looking for that they like, is this idea that they can have images of people from another culture, that they’re interested in maintaining a level of exoticism within the image by having those people in there. But, clearly, that’s not the question. Because people are not saying, Well, why do you now have this white woman in your other picture. So, I realize that there seems to be something about Robo Makes Dinner that creates some level of discomfort. I’m not sure — Robo has been humanized, actually, he’s not like this Japanese robot off to the far left, which isn’t so. I mean, he has two arms, two legs and human-like features.

GS: Maybe that is what disturbs people. Because it’s humanoid. There’s a way in which this might be read where, okay. You see these fires going, but there’s no humans about — and maybe my own initial association, when I see a set up like this, is that movie, I think it starred Bruce Dern, he’s floating out in the middle of space in this, like, terrarium, and there are three robots working for him. Dern is the only human on board, and there are all these plants in the terrarium/space ship, because Earth is so polluted it can no longer support life. So, it’s this self-contained unit, but mostly it’s the robots doing all this work. So, it’s kind of a disturbing image. And that’s part of my response to this piece, I remember imagery along those lines, where the humans are gone, and — it’s become a kind of future myth we have, maybe. Or maybe even technology taking over, continuing to do the functions of human life, but without us. And it may even be that we feel that about ourselves to some degree, that we are in some sense robotized, and that we’re just going through these functions — I mean, is that something you feel?

FT: For myself? No. [Laughter.] If I felt that, I wouldn’t make this. I mean, I would, I guess. I told you about that screw thing. No, but, I just felt like, from where I’m sitting, I’m thinking that what’s interesting or ironic about it is that Robo is making dinner in the way that you would when you don’t have modern conveniences available to you. To me, there lies the irony. Robo is not even making dinner on an electric stove or a gas stove, Robo is going the traditional outdoor fire route. And there’s some kind of circle or regressing — somehow Robo and all this technology has gone back to making fires, and he still has his, in his hand, see, his remote control.

[Laughter.]

GS: Now, you’re making this thing huge, you said this is 1,000 dpi?

FT: Yes.

GS: And I’m looking at the remote control, and it’s now the one thing on the screen, and it’s amazing, it’s crisply visible. I don’t know if people will be able to do this when they look at the image on the web probably not. So, um, you’ve talked about this before, about what is the art? Is it the image, is it what’s literally on the disc, are you going to be selling the disc, or having it printed, or what?

FT: These two pieces we’ve been looking at were being shown this weekend in Cologne, Germany. They’re nine feet by four or five feet.

GS: So what we’re looking at, we don’t see everything that’s potentially visible.

FT: Right. Including all my shadows that I made. You know, the thing about Robo is that the arms are not like that on the original robot. I reconstructed his original arms.

GS: Where’s this image from?

FT: This is from the robot that was in the Fusion Cuisine video. And if you’ll remember, that robot had straight arms. So, I played with them, so he can now hold the remote control and make dinner.

GS: So, you told me that, in one of the shows where this image will be seen, you wanted to call the whole show Robo Makes Dinner. And they didn’t go for it.

FT: Well, like everything else, when you work with a gallery, it’s a collaboration. I wanted them to be comfortable with the show and the title. We each had our several votes. Why do you want to know about the title?

GS: Because I think it’s interesting how a title is a framing device. So, when people think about how they want something framed, the title is generally one of the most obvious ways to do that. It’s just a predominant framing device. It’s short, it’s memorable, and it has meaning. And the title you and the gallery decided on, At the Water Tap, obviously has a very different meaning, or set of meanings.

FT: Yeah. But the thing is, we couldn’t just pick a title from any of my work. We had to narrow it down to something that could encompass the whole work. For instance, if we had called it Labour for Flowers, it might not have worked as well. You know what I mean? Like, it doesn’t encompass anything, it’s too specific to that one piece.

GS: And Suburbia would be a bit much.

FT: Suburbia would be a bit much. Minding the Living Room might not be a bad title.

GS: Now, this brings up another issue that you’ve talked about — there’s so much of the domestic in your work. This is not always the case, but I see that, at the beginning, the first of these images that you did, was The Spinner and the Spindle, from 1995, where she has a giant robot arm, but she’s doing a very domestic task, which is —

FT: Spinning cotton into thread.

GS: And this is carried through your work, I remember, for instance, the one where this woman’s standing in the kitchen and there are all these things floating around her head.

FT: Daydream.

GS: Right, all the way to Robo Makes Dinner. And what’s interesting to me is the way in which this is a universal. And in that way, I wonder if this is one way in which you’re moving somewhat away from the identity politics you’d mentioned of the 80s. Because this is such a universal, it doesn’t matter what culture you go to, it’s going to have some aspect of this.

FT: Cooking, or eating?

GS: Well, the domestic, using tools of some kind, and so on. I mean, if one of the ways in which identity politics in art is made manifest is by mapping out or making people aware of difference, you’re moving in the opposite direction —

FT: Exactly.

GS: And it seems like this is the ideal place to start. What are the commonalities? The specifics may very well be different, but it is all technology.

FT: There is that, and you know what else, what I find most interesting? You’ll find a people, a kind of people, who’ll have a prejudice about another kind of people, and socially they’ll not mingle with them, but they’re not opposed to eating dishes that originated from those people. I’ve always thought that was fascinating. And I think that’s part of the element of picking something domestic. It started with that, thinking about that fascination. Even within the same country, people will adapt different dishes, or assimilate them into their own.

GS: Fusion Cuisine.

FT: Exactly.

Friday, November 03, 2006

Issac Adjetey Sowah | Ghana | Fantasy Coffins

Even Ghana's director of tourism may have to admit that Accra has its work cut out competing with other tourist destinations in Africa. Yet just outside the capital, is the suburb of Teshi and it is here that tourists are coming to look at a relatively new tradition - the fantasy coffin makers.


In pictures: Fantasy coffins


Drive slowly down the main high street in Teshi, Eastern Accra, and you would probably glance at showrooms and wonder why anyone would want to exhibit a large red fish, or an oversized hammer.

It is as if you have arrived at some strange storage area for a local drama group or even film set.

But, further into town, you will see another couple of "film set" workshops, and another, and goodness, is that really an aeroplane?

On closer inspection each of these objects turns out to be a wooden casket highly crafted and lovingly finished to transport the newly deceased on their journey to the afterlife.

Isaac Adjetey Sowah's showroom in a suburb of Accra has some of the most colourful coffins to be found anywhere.


Isaac Adjetey Sowah is the manager of the family business his grandfather started. And at only 22 he has seen it all and he has made it all. Coffins crafted as hammers, fish, cars, mobile phones, hens, roosters, leopards, lions, canoes, cocoa beans and several elephants.

It seems there is nothing Isaac's company would not consider. Mercedes and Cadillacs are very popular he tells me.

'Dignity and status'

But if the designs are fanciful, the business of death is taken very seriously indeed. And the final journey on this earth has to be marked with as much dignity and status as can be mustered.

Isaac would like his own coffin to be shaped like a carpenter's plane
Isaac and his team of carpenters work with many different types of wood in the open-air workshop.

One employee is crafting a cocoa bean, another is chiselling the fine details of a complicated pineapple design.

Many of their clients want to bury loved ones in something that reflects their trade.

Even if that means being buried in a Coca-Cola bottle.

Perhaps surprisingly, this is a new tradition. It has only been around for about 50 years.

The story goes that in the first half of last century one Ata Owoo was well-known for making magnificent chairs to transport the village chief on poles or the shoulders of minions.


When Owoo had finished one particularly elaborate creation, an eagle, a neighbouring chief wanted one too, this time in the shape of a cocoa pod. A major crop in Ghana.

However, the chief next door died before the bean was finished and so it became his coffin.

Then in 1951, the grandmother of one of Owoo's apprentices died.

She had never been in an aeroplane, so he built her one for her funeral.

And a tradition was born.


And what about Isaac's own casket. What would he have?

He had obviously worked this out a long time ago and decided he had made far too many hammers. He was going to have a carpenter's plane.


Popular designs

When I asked Isaac about his most unusual commission his eyes light up and a big grin envelopes his face.

A Bible coffin, starting at around $400, might represent a year's salary for many of Isaac's clients


"Oh," he says, "An angel, a big white angel".

Now it seems he cannot wait to craft the archangel Gabriel himself.

But for those wanting something more conventional, there is always the Bible coffin which remains a popular design.

Think of a large box in the shape of a leather bound book with the front cover on hinges, and you get the idea.

It is not the most expensive either, although starting at around $400 that could be a year's salary for many of Isaac's clients.

It became a bit of a challenge to guess how each of these coffins actually opens.

To my untrained eye, I had no idea how you would get a body into an enormous snail that would not have looked out of place on the film set of "Dr Dolittle".

Isaac gently explained that the shell came off.

And I felt even more foolish when I had to ask who it was for. A snail seller, of course.

You can buy large fat specimens any day of the week in the market.

One part of the family will come along and decide that the canoe another family member ordered, just is not right for uncle Jo


And that enormous biro?

A journalist of course. I was beginning to get the hang of this. But even in death there are often disputes. One part of the family will come along and decide that the canoe another family member ordered, just is not right for uncle Jo. He should have a much larger boat to represent a lifetime as a fisherman, despite the fact that Isaac's team has lovingly crafted an oarsman to row him to eternity. Meanwhile, Uncle Jo lingers in a mortuary for a year or so while the two sides fight it out.




Thursday, October 26, 2006

Onwu Di | Death of a Husband

Installation by Mpane Aime from the Republic of Congo. My personal winner of the Dak'Art Festival 2006. Simply called 'Congo'. I felt that this image went well with Chinwe's poem about Onwu Di | Death of a Husband

Onwu Di | Death of a Husband

She dies and, ….
“Oh! Take heart! ”
“May God comfort you”
“It’s one of those things”

He dies and it’s ….
“Aahh! ! ! ”
“She has done her worst! ”
“Ajoo Nwanyi! ”
“Amuusu! ”

On sick bed,
On wheels,
Beneath the sea,
In the air,
“She was the cause! ! ! ”
They always say.

The other people lament
“What rubbish! ”
“Such injustice! ”
But to deaf ears they fall.

They come in troops
Lazy bones in disguise
To reap where they sowed not
In the name of kinship.

Day by day they saunter in,
To cast your lot
And at times,
Battle over the remnants
Like vultures to the carcass.

Di! Stand up!
Get up! !
From your eternal slumber
And show us your slayer
For your home is falling apart.
Your kinsmen have ravaged your house.

Your wife has becomem a barbarian
Made to drink the juice of your corpse
Stripped of her beauty by her skinned head
Ruffled and tossed like a culprit.

They have sentenced her to a dozen months imprisonment
In the confines of your ancestral home.
They gave her white this time
To cover her nakedness.
A change from the black
That used to be the uniform
And until she completes her days,
The light of the sun she dares not see again
Nor witness the joys of the world.
And when that happens,
A second wife we fear she may become.

The other people lament again,
“What rubbish! ”
“Such injustice! ”
Yet to deaf ears they still fall.

Your children
We know not their fate
Chased away from your cocoon
Scattered like sheep
Destitutes we fear they shall become.

Di! ,
If only you will arise
And prove the innocence of your wife,
Then your home we fear
Is doomed forever.

Chinwe Azubuike

Chinwe Azubuike | Death of a Husband



Onwu Di | Death Of A Husband


It is one of the greatest misfortunes that can befall a woman at any point in her life - to loose her husband. No matter the length of time she spent with him in matrimony, the grief and sorrow she experiences cannot be quantified. It is an eternal loss; and so, no matter how much we try to console or encourage the truth is, she has lost her soul-mate. All we can do is give her time. For it is only time, as they say, that heals all. It is vital that she finds the right support - morally and otherwise from relatives, friends and loved ones so that she can see her way through this mournful period. Unfortunately, more often than not the reverse is usually the case.

In different parts of the world, irrespective of religion, tradition and culture, widows are victims of violence and oppression at the hands of close family members and so-called friends, especially their in-laws. The story below clearly illustrates my thoughts on this matter. The characters and locations are real.

Personally, I believe that my father allowed himself to be the sacrificial lamb for my sake. It was as if he was communicating from his grave and saying, "Here my eldest daughter… Chinwe, take it… this is your breakthrough in your course to support the widows of Nigeria... For my sake your voice and desire will be heard and accepted finally by our people," and if I tire in this campaign through my poetry and writings, then I have disgraced my father's memory. This is the only way I can appease my father's soul.

So I ask this question - Do widows deserve to have their human rights stripped from them and violated when their husbands die?






Article written by Chinwe Azubuike.
August, 2006.


Factual Story….

My father, Mr. Wisdom Azubuike died on the 8th of August 2006, aged 60yrs and was to be buried on the 24th of August 2006. He died seated while on duty at work. He was thought to be asleep on duty, but instead, he was dead…(he was a security guard at the Apapa Branch of Intercontinental Bank PLC in Lagos, Nigeria). Autopsy result stated he had suffered a sudden attack of 'Hypertension', because he did not know that his blood pressure had been rising for quite some time.

My mother, my siblings and my father's elder brother, Mr.Christian Azubuike, along with other family friends accompanied the corpse to our village on the 23rd August 2006 following the wake-keep that was held on the night of the 22nd August in Festac Town, Lagos. Before leaving for the village, my father's brothers, had collected eighty thousand naira, (the whole money) which was given to the family by the Bank, as support for any expenses incurred on the burial arrangements. His brothers said it was the fee that was to be paid to perform some burial rites for the corpse and also prepare things such as refreshments, etc for the reception of guests after the burial. My recently widowed mother was left penniless. Regardless, they heartlessly demanded for more but for the fact that she and my younger brother scolded them and argued the fact that there was no more money left to give.

On the night of the 23rd when my family arrived at the village, at our compound my Uncle, Christian suddenly and surprisingly ran into occupy the family house, (just a 2 bedroom bungalow-like house, which was owned by my late Grandparents) with his other brother, Leonard and their children, and my Aunt Mrs Rozaline - stating that my father had no house of his own therefore they would take over the bungalow. In this way my mother and her family were not even given any welcome or a place to lay their heads for the night. They actually rested in the coastal bus (donated to them by the Bank as means of transportation) and slept without food or bathing. Betrayal is an ugly word, especially in the context of family.

The next morning, the day of the burial, my father's brothers and sister, Mr.Christian Azubuike, Mr.Leo Azubuike, and Mrs Rozaline, arranged with other members of the Azubuikes of Duruigbo clan (where I come from) of Oka Village in Isiala Mbanno Local Government of Imo State to stop the burial of my father, Wisdom. My Uncle, Christian accused my mother and siblings of killing their brother,(meaning my Dad)… that they should bring out all the money my father had, because his daughter (meaning, I ) lives abroad, and seemingly has received a small fortune from me.... the accusation was that we had all, including I, planned and executed our own father's death and that it was only us, the immediate family, that would benefit from whatever came from me. Me, the pauper female poet living in London.

My Uncle Leo had hired mobs and touts who carried sticks and weapons to batter my mother and family. My Uncle Christian, and his sister, (our Aunty) Mrs Rozaline, gathered all the women of the Duruigbo clan who carried firewood and cains to beat my mother with, according to Tradition. Then, in full view of the public, including people of other tribes and some staff of the Intercontinental Bank as well, who came from Lagos to our village to witness the burial, my Uncle Mr.Christian Azubuike stripped my father's body of his funeral clothes, which had been carefully chosen and dressed by my younger brother, Chukwuma. Christian took out a large sharpened knife and to the horror of all, desecrated the body. Splitting my father's stomach open, like a gutted fish, and then started to probe inside, justifying his action by stating he was searching for some vital organs or bodyparts in the absurd thought that we, Wisdom's immediate family, would have used them for money making rituals. Eventually yet still in the eyes of the amazed public, everything was carelessly put back to the way the mortuary workers had left it but the damage had been done and witnesses had overseen this cruel barbaric act by their fellow Nigerians. Once one has witnessed such an act nothing will quite seem the same again.

My younger brother, Chukwuma Azubuike, being the first son of my Dad, insisted that he wanted to bury my father on that same day, but my Uncle refused. Three men from my village intervened and tried to make peace, demanding that the burial take place that very day yet my Uncle Christian refused. My brother again eagerly enquired when they actually intended burying his father but my Uncle told him to leave, that he had no idea about any burial anymore. They brutally chased my family away, who ran for safety, back into the coastal bus. Even while they were inside the bus, the people kept shouting and banging at the windows and doors asking them to come out of the bus. My Uncles seized my Dad's corpse along with the others, put it back in the coffin and asked the ambulance driver who had brought the coffin from Lagos to take it back to a mortuary situated near our village. Members of my mother's family, who came for the burial as well, were the ones who took my family back with them in the coastal bus to their house at Owerri where the whole family took refuge. Consequently they had won and denied us the proper Christian Mass we had wanted for our father, moreso, denied me of the speech I had written to be read at Mass for my dead Dad and (obviously) squandered the Eighty Thousand Naira they had collected from my family's benefit back in Festac. There are witnesses who can testify to the money that was given to my father's brothers.

While talking refuge at Owerri in Imo State, my family tried to see if there was a way they could get information about the burial and attend, because it is unheard of that a man be buried in the absence of his wife and children. My mother and younger brother made official reports of the case to different Police commission zones in Imo State.

On Friday 1st September 2006, my family in the company of my mother's relatives and many other people who were also armed went to what they thought was my father's funeral. They had received word that my Dad was to be buried on Friday (although none of them had actually been properly informed). On the Friday 1st September, that was thought to be the burial, my father's brothers had once again shifted the burial to the next day, Saturday in the hope that they could perform it in the absence of my family... However, this did not deter anyone because my family and all the rest of the people that accompanied them from Owerri all stayed over until the Saturday morning, which was the D-day. There was a lot of friction, initiated mainly by my father's people, but then they saw that my family too were really out for them that day. Everyone attended the funeral Mass, which to the amazement of many, had become a biased occasion, for the priest who celebrated the Mass gave a very angering and chiding speech for the benefit of my family- on hearsay from the words of my father's brothers, indirectly accused my family of being instruments of my father's death.

After Mass everyone went back to our compound for the final 'lay to rest' act. Then my father's brothers and their entourage tried to create some barriers again, by physically and morally trying to cause outright War between them and my family with her own entourage. The resistance on my mother's part was very clear to them. She vehemently refused to partake in some incongruous fetish rituals that were presented to her. It had become a matter of War if push came to shove. Lives were willing to be lost if it would eventually allow my father to have his rightful burial. Eventually my father was laid to rest, but sadly ungracefully.

Thursday, October 05, 2006

Tobias Rix Butama | Kenyan Artist




Tobias Alern "Rix" Butama | Kenyan Artist

Rix Butama was born in Bungoma, Kenya in 1959. His work as an artist has been clearly documented in the Library of the National Museum of African Art in Washington, D.C. and extensively at home in Nairobi, Kenya.

He gained the post of Principal at the Buru Buru Institute of Fine Arts in Nairobi in 1993, which was the first of it’s kind in Kenya. In 1999 Rix was asked to present a television programme called Art Zone for KBC (Kenya Broadcasting Corporation) which he did for 3 years. Since leaving KBC, Rix has returned to teaching and is head of art at a private school on the outskirts of Nairobi. His ambition is to paint the largest mural in the world around 7.5km long. His work is being auctioned off on Ebay.com to raise money for his record-breaking project.

He has had numerous exhibitions outside Nairobi in London, Rome, Chile and the USA. In the words of the artist, "We were not brought into this world to take life as it comes but more according to our talents and living up to them in order to make life meaningful."





Title: Friends
Date: 2002
Size: 15inches by 25inches.
Material: Oil on Canvas






*N.B. Signed and dated by the artist









Friends is a clear example in Rix’s where he is beginning to forge his own distinct style and trying out an remarkable technique of using the palette knife to make textural shapes in the paint. His abstract imagery in reminiscent of Henry Moore’s sculpture or closer to home the influence of the "Shona Sculpture" from Zimbabwe; all these factor generate Rix’s genuine place amongst the best in contemporary Kenyan art circles.




Title: Maasai Series
Date: 2002
Size: 15in by 25 in
Material: Oil on Canvas
















and again in the painting Down by the River

Title: Down by the River
Date: 2002
Size: 15in by 25 in
Material: Oil on Canvas













Here are several examples of Rix’s interest in geometry and linear patterns and creating a sense of movement in his work. In the Maasai series Rix has used a black pen to small circles around the faces giving a different element of texture to the work. This is very much his experimental phase and shows an artist battling with aspects that he’s determined to feature in his work. The issue of movement, texture, and geometry leading into fascinating territory in terms of style, imaginative content complimenting rural and traditional culture with the modern. Rix works are amongst the finest works being produced in Kenya today.

Tuesday, September 05, 2006

Henry Lumu | Ugandan Contemporary Art



Artist: Henry Lutalo Lumu
Country: Uganda
Dates: 1939-1989

Henry Lutalo Lumu is credited by many of Uganda's artists as being one of the country's brightest and most widely influential talents of modern Ugandan art from as early as the 1950s until his death in 1989. Studying under Margaret Trowell at Makerere University, Lumu became adept at drawing at an early age. While also beginning to work with semi-abstract forms, still felt his art was strongly anchored within the precise drawing of form. Choosing to gradually modify the shapes, tones, and style of his works to incorporate less natural appearances, he nevertheless incorporated recognizable figures and objects executed in an innovative semi-abstract style.

However he still felt that students who were taught abstract techniques before becoming adept at drawing were cheated from becoming complete artists. In 1965, he expressed his disappointment with what he saw was an over-emphasis on abstraction at the expense of skilled drawing as a foundation for artistic expression:
"We are not yet ready for abstract art. Our audience wants some recognizable link with the work of art on view. The purely abstract painting, whose emphasis is on isolated aesthetic values, will not fit into any context that is familiar. Abstraction comes naturally only after a society or individual has thoroughly explored the objective world. If abstraction is encouraged in our schools, it will be a grave injustice to the eventual development of our art. The younger generations should be taught first to draw, to measure their universe carefully. After that intimate contact has been established, then they can run off into the wild with their imaginations."

While this debate carried on, art of this period benefited from a rich cross-fertilization of influences and creative talents culminating in several artists being recognized as stylistic leaders in the emerging modernism and mixed abstract styles which defined this era.

Further stimulating this competitive environment, Uganda’s premier petroleum corporations Esso and Caltex, held widely publicized art competitions rewarding leading artists by having their work grace yearly calendars published and distributed widely throughout the region.
Uganda’s Art on Television
Beginning in 1968, Lumu held regularly televised art classes on Uganda National Television. This broad exposure helped to stimulate growth of a dynamic, extended art community which was based around but expanded well beyond the Makerere campus. Fellow artist David Wasswa Katongole was hired under Lumu as assistant artistic director.

In addition to gaining wider exposure for art within Uganda, Lumu’s weekly broadcasts had the result of stimulating a new wave of aspiring artists to create new visual universes by mixing imagination and input from the world around them. Artist James Kitamirike recalls:
"Henry created these incredible scenes right before my eyes -- I couldn’t believe what I was seeing."
"I remember one show where he painted goats so real it seemed you could feel them breathe on you. I knew at that moment that I wanted to be an artist who could paint like that."

While Lumu's short life ended in 1989, his creative spirit and artistic legacy are immortalized in the works he created and through the generations of Ugandan artists which count him among their primary influences in their art and careers.